Our water comes off the hill behind us. I
guess just about all of Southeast Alaska is one big “hill.” It’s pretty
much vertical everywhere you go around here. For instance there are 110
steps from our floating dock at sea level to the upper generator shed on
the hill behind us. When you include several ramps (without steps) it
is about 100’ vertically to the top of our property before the bush
takes over. Our water source is about another 50’ feet vertically up the
hill through the bush and trees. It starts as a 55 gallon plastic
barrel half-buried on its side in the bed of a little stream that flows
for 2,500’ out of the mountainous watershed above it. There is a 12”
square hole cut in the top (the side of the barrel, as it lays in the
stream) with a section of mesh from an old screen door over the hole to
keep out debris. A piece of 3” black plastic pipe diverts stream water
to the screen and into the hole in the barrel. A 1” plastic hose runs
the 400’ down the hill to the house. We have no water tank. No pump to
provide water pressure. Mother nature provides an unlimited, steady
stream of fresh water off the hill and gravity provides 150’ foot of
head pressure at the taps in our house at the water’s edge. Free. (The
water system for our house is independent from the Lodge in winter. The
Lodge water system is winterized, filled with 500 gallons of RV
anti-freeze at this time of year.)
The
heat for our house and most cooking comes off the beach. Logs are
everywhere, escapees from log booms, cut away from river banks or eroded
off shorelines. It is a never-ending supply of fuel for the woodstove,
which will drive you out of the house if you don’t open a door or
window, even in the dead of winter. Yes, the logs have to be bucked up
and split. But a Stihl chainsaw and a Honda-powered hydraulic
log-splitter make quick work of a log found floating in front of the
Cove, or pulled off the beach with the skiff on a big winter king-tide.
Two kettles sit on top of the woodstove at all times, boiling away any
stream-borne bugs like Giardia, that cause “Beaver Fever,” a close
relative of Montezuma’s Revenge. A quick mug-up of hot tea or cocoa, or a
hot buttered rum at the end of the day is a side benefit. Toast is done
in a frying pan on the woodstove, oatmeal takes just a few minutes, and
a propane gas range and barbecue takes care of anything more
complicated.
Generating
electricity with the large diesel generators used in the summer for the
Lodge gets really expensive for just the two of us. Even our smallest
Genset, at 60kW will burn 30 gallons of $5.00/gallon diesel in a day.
Yes, it’s off the grid, but…! Solar panels, that charge a bank of
batteries that in turn drive an inverter for AC powered small appliances
works great – in the summer with our long days, but not so much in the
winter. Fortunately there is one great big refrigerator just outside the
door, and a propane-powered clothes dryer takes care of that otherwise
big electrical load, as does a propane hot water heater. For everything
else there is the little Honda suitcase generator that burns about a
quart (litre) of gasoline every 6-8 hours. But we seldom run it more
than a few hours a day, unless we are curled up in front of the fire in
the evening, reading or watching a movie. The Honda will run all the
lights, the heated tile floors in the bathroom, three boot dryers, a
full-size refrigerator with freezer compartment, the sewer pump when it
cycles on, and a small microwave. What else is there?
We
have no TV, but we could have a dish if we wanted. We choose not to
have TV, but we have Sirius XM satellite radio, excellent AT&T cell
phone service (with a great data plan) and we can create our own wi-fi
hotspots with an iPhone, an iPad or a Hotspot device about the size of a
pocket calculator.
Food:
Our dinner last night centered around liver and onions. Venison liver.
No I didn’t shoot the deer and all that entails. But we sure could have.
There’s no shortage of Bambis around here. But this was a gift from
hunters that we hosted at the Lodge last month. And it was delicious.
Smoked salmon salad went with it.
Our neighbors live a subsistence
lifestyle and they are always gifting us with a venison roast, or a
generous section of choice tenderloin “backstrap.” We haul all their
freight and fuel on our weekly freight runs in the summertime. This is
their way of saying thanks, along with keeping an eye on the place when
we are gone. We don’t need to hire caretakers. They live here.
Keeping
vegetables fresh is a problem, but every other day or so the taxi, (a
DeHavilland Beaver on floats) comes by with things for somebody in the
Cove, or to pick up or drop off a neighbor that is going to, or coming
back from Town (Ketchikan). So it is a simple matter to call up Safeway
and have them run an order of fresh stuff over to Pacific Airways for
delivery to the door, well maybe not the door, but the floatplane dock
in front of the house.
Fresh bread comes from the oven. Patty has a beer batter recipe that is to die for…but it does eat into my beer supply!
Today
we went fishing, as is our custom on Christmas day when the weather
permits. It was a beautiful day, flat calm and bright sun most of the
day. We caught enough True Cod for five meals for the two of us.
Tomorrow
we will rig the shrimp (prawn) traps and crab traps (Dungeness) and set
them not too far from the Lodge. We’ve been too busy to get to them
this Christmas. Tomorrow is the day.
The
weather has been mild, not even freezing yet, but it is not always like
this. We typically will have several hurricanes a month from December
through March. Not big ones, but 60-70 knot winds are not unusual, and
30-40 knot storms with sheets of horizontal rain are the norm. We don’t
get a lot of snow, but when we do, we get a lot. It is not unusual to
wake up in the morning to 2-3 feet of snow. It is then that we see we
are not alone. Critter tracks everywhere. Otter, mink, marten, deer of
course, and the occasional wolf track up at the back of the lot.
New
Year’s eve we will get together with our three neighbor couples in the
Cove. We will tell stories, play penny-ante poker, drink beer and mulled
wine, and graze for hours on a feast of delights from the land and sea.
It’s not for everybody, but we wouldn’t trade it for anything.
We hope your Christmas was filled with what you enjoy most, and the New Year brings all that you hoped for.
Mac and Patty
The frigid digits of the North